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#11 (permalink) |
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hmmm... I guess the second dive was not what you'd call "fruitful"?... nice to meet the two of you... I've put my pix up on my web (www.robindotadams.com) - didn't take too many, but picked up a few pointers and happy to dive with you to whenever...
R
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Kit: Formerly Olympus c7070 but finally made the jump to DSLR - Canon 450D, 60mm Macro Lens, Ikelite Housing, DS125 - and now a nice new sparkly 10-17 Fisheye (plus a dome port and another DS125 - thank god for tax rebates!)
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#13 (permalink) | |
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Join Date: Nov 2006
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#14 (permalink) | |
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We went the day after you lot (Friday 2nd). Think there were 7 divers that day! Rob
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My Kit: Nikon D80, Nikon 60mm macro, Sigma 105mm macro, Tokina 10-17mm. Ikelite housing with twin Inon z240 strobes. www.emup.org.uk www.robcuss.co.uk |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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I have had a look at the shots. The 2 reed shots are the pick for me although both are slightly overexposed. I would try reopening them in the raw converter and moving them down a stop. There is a similar problem for some of the diver shots where the sun ball is burnt out. I believe the trick is to try to kee the sun just outside the shot unless you can get away with a very fast shutter speed. When shooting pike, or silvery fish, you also need to remember to dial the flash compensation down to avoid the reflection off of the scales (as with the last pike shot). Do you review the historgram after each shot? I must say that I never used to but now it is the best thing since sliced bread. If you can, get the historgram overlaid on the image so that you can see both the exposure and the composition. Just some thoughts. Daniel |
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#16 (permalink) |
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I figured
Daniel,
you're spot on with the exposure... I knew that was likely to be the problem, but as you say, I can dial this down in the raw converter. The whole reason is to learn - in fact that dive was the first time I've used the Histogram for a while - working out how to get the display the way I want it after I've taken an image. Thanks again for guidance... when I get my drysuit sorted will have to hit the coast with you... Robin
__________________
Kit: Formerly Olympus c7070 but finally made the jump to DSLR - Canon 450D, 60mm Macro Lens, Ikelite Housing, DS125 - and now a nice new sparkly 10-17 Fisheye (plus a dome port and another DS125 - thank god for tax rebates!)
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#17 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Mar 2007
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The historgram really is wonderful and, once you get a hang of it, it is straightforward.
If you have anything on the far right then it is over exposed and the aperature / shutter needs to be reduced. If you have anything on the far left then it is likely to be underexposed. If the historgram is all grouped together rather than spreadout then the chances are your flash isn't lighting the subject. I know that is incredibly basic and I am sure someone will point out that shooting a composition that is wholly black and white will result in extremes left and right, or that a close up of a single coloured subject will result in a close grouping, but as a very general rule the above is true. Give it a try in the club's pool when you've finished with your students. Let me know when your drysuit is repaired and we can sort something out. Daniel |
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#18 (permalink) |
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Sorry about the cross-post, this is on YD too:
In sorting through my 2009 photos I realised I never got around to processing the photos from the day, so here is a selection: ![]() Hope you enjoy, Rob
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My Kit: Nikon D80, Nikon 60mm macro, Sigma 105mm macro, Tokina 10-17mm. Ikelite housing with twin Inon z240 strobes. www.emup.org.uk www.robcuss.co.uk |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to Cussy For This Useful Post: | David P (19-01-2010) |
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