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Macro / Close Ups All the smaller stuff

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Old 22-08-2006, 09:38   #1 (permalink)

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Macro - The Basics

This thread is for users to post useful info for new photographers or those looking into this area for the first time. Feel free to add any relevant information, tips, links that you feel would of help.

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Old 24-08-2006, 23:26   #2 (permalink)

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Re: Macro - The Basics

Here is something I learned today dont do macro in a current it causes bluring
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Old 25-08-2006, 09:08   #3 (permalink)

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Re: Macro - The Basics

Here's what worked for me.

First, I'd use a macro lens. The macro modes on most cameras fixes the zoom at the wide end so you have to get very close, a macro limits the maximum distance at which you can get good focus and allows you to use the zoom fully so you can work either close or further away depending on your subject.

In use, I'd put the subject dead centre in the screen and half press the shutter release to get a focus lock, checking the in-focus light came on to lock the focus setting. Then I'd recompose and move the camera back and forth until things looked in focus on the screen and then fully press the shutter button. Then I'd repeat three or four times as the depth of field is so small it was the only way to get really sharp focus where it was wanted.

Getting good exposures was easy, getting good focus was the hard bit, but working this way delivered me some good images.
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Old 22-12-2007, 06:26   #4 (permalink)

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Are we talking P&S or dSLR?

P&S:

If you're shooting without a dedicated strobe be prepared for (relatively) lots of backscatter.

P&S/dSLR:

A dSLR without at least one dedicated strobe makes no sense, to me at least. Also, not that long ago I would have said that TTL makes no sense either, not so now that most manufacturers have managed to get their act together. TTL is VERY useful in macro photography.

The optimum place to position your (single) strobe is immediately in front of the lens just before it gets into the lens's vision, pointing just before and the rest after your minimum focus area. Yes, there is a trade-off between height away from the lens (to avoid it being in the image area) and distance forward from the lens, you need to experiment and it largely depends on the close focusing distance of your particular lens. Given that you're hardly likely to need maximum power a diffuser (cheap enough) is also very useful - spreads the light and softens it.

That applies to both types of camera but with twin strobes you have the opportunity to play around. Place a group of small objects at the bottom of a swimming pool and do just that, you'll be surprised how quickly you learn a thing or two.
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