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Thread: ISO and Aperature settings

  1. #1
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    ISO and Aperature settings

    Thinking about this weekends Splash-in, I am curious as to the maximum ISO settings and minimum (or is it maximum - lowest f-stop) aperature that most people consider acceptable for shooting WA wreck type shots.

    I'll be using an 18mm on a D70. I was thinking of 800 and something like f5.6 to keep the shutter speed high enough to remove any camera shake issues. It should be a bright day.

    Thoughts?

    Daniel

  2. #2
    Senior Member Mike W's Avatar
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    I work it out t'other way round - I set my shutter speed to the minimum I'm prepared to use for a specific lens (1/15th sec for the 8mm fisheye, 1/30th for the standard zoom and 1/125th for my 105 macro), then set the corresponding aperture bearing in mind the amount of flash I want/need to use and if I'm using a dome port or not (With domes I set f8 mostly, but sometimes use f5.6 or f11 depending on circumstances, flat ports I'm usually shooting macro so end up at f16 or even f22, though I've been known to use f2.8 for availalble light), and then use the lowest ISO value that allows me to shoot with these settings.

    I always try to keep ISO as low as poss, I can add noise in software but getting rid of it is much tougher. Having said that, 1600 ISO shots printed to A4 are pretty darn good from an SLR.
    Best Regards,

    Mike Ward

    www.divewithmike.co.uk

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike W View Post
    I work it out t'other way round - I set my shutter speed to the minimum I'm prepared to use for a specific lens (1/15th sec for the 8mm fisheye, 1/30th for the standard zoom and 1/125th for my 105 macro), then set the corresponding aperture bearing in mind the amount of flash I want/need to use and if I'm using a dome port or not (With domes I set f8 mostly, but sometimes use f5.6 or f11 depending on circumstances, flat ports I'm usually shooting macro so end up at f16 or even f22, though I've been known to use f2.8 for availalble light), and then use the lowest ISO value that allows me to shoot with these settings.

    I always try to keep ISO as low as poss, I can add noise in software but getting rid of it is much tougher. Having said that, 1600 ISO shots printed to A4 are pretty darn good from an SLR.
    Mike, I am curious as to what camera you are using.
    Canon D5 Mark II with Canon EF 24mm f/1.4L II USM lens in an Ikelite housing and 8" Dome Port with dual DS160 strobes.

  4. #4
    Senior Member Mike W's Avatar
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    Canon 350D - Digital Rebel XT where you are (I think!!!) - why do you ask?
    Best Regards,

    Mike Ward

    www.divewithmike.co.uk

  5. #5
    Senior Member KenByrne's Avatar
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    When using a D70 I tried to keep the ISO at or below 400. Above 400 the noise was more noticable. That said a shot at 1600 is better than no shot at all.
    Ken

    Nikon D80 Ikelite Housing, 2x Ikelite DS51

  6. #6
    The Big Kahuna TimIngmire's Avatar
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    wot Ken said!
    My Equipment:
    Nexus ND70 Housing, Nikon D70, Nikon 60, 105 and 200 mm Micro Lenses with Manual Focus Multiport System, Nikon 12-24mm, Nikon 10.5mm; with FP-170 Dome port; Dual Inon Strobes on ULCS arms. And one Concerned Bank Manager


    Skype username: timing2211

  7. #7
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    We shoot with a G7, D30 and a new D5 Mark II. We have done some testing of the noise at all available ISO settings with each of these cameras. Our conclusions are that with the G7 keep the ISO below 200; with the D30 keep it below 400 and with the D5 we have noticed very little noise with ISO settings of 3200 and below. We start to detect significant noise at 6400. This is up to 200% on a computer screen.

    I am having 20" by 30" blowups printed of the same shot taken at ISO of 100, 400, 800, 1600 and 3200 with the new D5. I won't get them back until tomorrow afternoon, but I don't expect to see much difference. I did this just to make sure that I know what I am doing when I chase that illusive great shot underwater. If this works out the way I think it will, my plan is to shoot the D5 Mark II at aperture priority with the ISO set at "A" or "automatic." At least that is the way I intend to start with the new D5.

    I will let you know what the prints reveal, but I don't expect to have much of a problem to 3200.
    Last edited by wally2; 05-02-2009 at 21:52.
    Canon D5 Mark II with Canon EF 24mm f/1.4L II USM lens in an Ikelite housing and 8" Dome Port with dual DS160 strobes.

  8. #8
    Moderator GLOC's Avatar
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    But what does your bank manager say?

    I work on a minimum of 1/8 using Sigma 10-20 on a D200 but I also use 2 strobes which helps mask any camera shake that maybe present.

    ISO as required but upto 1600 if I need to (which in some of the places I end up diving to get enough ambient light is a requirement). The noise on the D200 is far less than the S2 I used to use.

    Regards
    Gareth

    Images of Life
    Travels Underwater and Further Afar
    Team FoxTurd

    Hugyfot D200, Nikon D200, Sigma 10-20, Custom LocLine Arms, 2 x SS200, 1 x DS125

  9. #9
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    Gareth

    What is the realistic useable range of the D200? I am about to buy one. One my D70, noise is very evident at 400 even in well lit conditions.

    Daniel

  10. #10
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    I picked up the 20" by 30" photos that I had printed up to 3200 ISO with the new D5 Mark II. I laid out the blowup of the picture taken at an ISO of 100 beside the one taken at an ISO of 3200 and the professionals at Epperson could hardly ID the photo taken at 100 ISO. Two of three finally got the right one pegged at ISO of 100.

    It was very difficult to tell the difference.

    This gives me the confidence to just set the ISO to automatic and let it go at that.
    Canon D5 Mark II with Canon EF 24mm f/1.4L II USM lens in an Ikelite housing and 8" Dome Port with dual DS160 strobes.

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