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#1 (permalink) |
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Split shots
Good afternoon!
bearing in mind that I am jumping *way* ahead of my skill level with this question, how do you take decent split shots? I have a Tokina 10-17mm lens and 8 in dome port which will be going on their maiden voyage to the green depths of Loch Fyne with me this Sunday, but was thinking split shots might be something to do in the surface interval. I've read in places that you need a 'half and half' filter made of half neutral density filter and half diopter to make it all work correctly. Is this necessary or can the UW side be balanced by adding a simgle strobe? Cheers! zan
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www.wildoceanphotography.com |
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#2 (permalink) |
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I've tried a couple of split shots with the Tokina and a 6" port. I hear adding dioptres is the ideal for a perfect shot but I've not tried that. The Tokina has good depth of field at 10mm so the effect of refraction on the point of focus isn't too bad. You can lighten up the underwater section with a strobe. This example used strobes underwater and is metered forthe diver. A smaller aperture would have given more depth of field.
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Ken Nikon D80 Ikelite Housing, 2x Ikelite DS51 |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Thanks, that's actually a much better result than I was expecting. The diver on the right looks a bit broken, but the main guy looks pretty normal. I'll give it a go with the strobe then and see how I go
Zan
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#4 (permalink) |
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Zan,
If you can shoot RAW then do that. You can usually get away with a 2 stop difference, so in PS you can process the above water and below water as separate layers. On exposure though you have to make sure you don't over expose the above water too much. I haven't tried one for a while, but what I do is take a burst of shots, especially if there are waves. You then should at least have one that's got the water near where you want it. I tend to avoid things that break the surface, or if they do line them up centrally where the noticeable distortion is minimal. Rob
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My Kit: Nikon D80, Sigma 50mm macro, Sigma 105mm macro, Tokina 10-17mm. Ikelite housing with twin DS-125 strobes. www.emup.org.uk www.robcuss.co.uk |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Thanks Rob, I'll bear that in mind. I shoot everything in RAW anyway, so that'll be one less thing to have to remember! We'll see what happens anyway, and if I get anything interesting I'll post it up here.
Zan
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www.wildoceanphotography.com |
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#6 (permalink) |
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One last bit of advice, although I haven't tried it. I quizzed Tony White on his technique and he suggested licking the dome. Apparently saliva means water runs off much quicker, so if there is a bit of wave action you get a clearer image. Like I say, not tried it myself.
Rob
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My Kit: Nikon D80, Sigma 50mm macro, Sigma 105mm macro, Tokina 10-17mm. Ikelite housing with twin DS-125 strobes. www.emup.org.uk www.robcuss.co.uk |
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#7 (permalink) |
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This is one of Trevor Rees' specialties - if he doesn't post give him a prod by PM
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My Equipment: Nexus ND70 Housing, Nikon D70, Nikon 60, 105 and 200 mm Micro Lenses with Manual Focus Multiport System, Nikon 12-24mm, Nikon 10.5mm; with FP-170 Dome port; Dual Inon Strobes on ULCS arms. And one Concerned Bank Manager Skype username: timing2211 |
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#8 (permalink) |
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A few tips that might help:
1. The widest lens and the biggest port are a good start. 2. Shoot with the sun high in the sky to ensure as much light is getting through the surface. 3. Stay shallow and use a light reflective bottom to keep as much light in the underwater scene. That way you may get away without strobes. 4 Be prepared to use manual focus rather than AF. 5 Keep the split in the middle to get a straight line split rather than a curved barrel distortion look. 6. Practice, practice, practice, I've not used diopters and split ND filters. A diopter does not make sense to me although a split ND filter does. |
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#9 (permalink) |
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thanks very much for all the advice. I ended up missing the dive on Sunday, but will be out again this week hopefully so I'll definately give this a go.
Zan
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